Jackpot in the Hitchhiker's Roulette

A few days ago we announced our intention to venture into Hitchhiker's Hell, the infamous Northern Ontario. We were told that there is no one who drives there at all and that the few drivers are unfriendly and suspicious. In fact, the distances between the towns are so long that nobody would dare to let a stranger drive with them for so long. Well, three days later we report back from Edmonton, 3000 kilometres away, with the positive news: we've made it!

3500 kilometres are behind us and we have to say, it wasn't that hot in hell. We started in Gatineau, the neighbouring city of Ottawa, where we had spent the night. We immediately decided to take the wrong route. Instead of biting the bullet and travelling two hours by bus to Kanata and then speeding straight west from there on the Trans-Canada Highway, we thought it would be smarter to take a shortcut that looked good on the map. Wrong thinking, two 1.5 hour waits on a country road with little traffic were the result. Fortunately, a Dutch-Canadian "rescued" us and took us to the Trans-Canada Highway.

A ride to Pembroke, where we dined at the Circle K Big Stop in the afternoon, a good place to meet long-distance riders. We reckoned we had little chance of getting any further. Suddenly a car stopped and we asked where it was going: "NORTH". A good feeling spread through us, without knowing exactly how far north, we got in. Alex works for Canadian Pacific Rail and is due to spend a week measuring rail heights. He always has to travel north to do this and took us just under 6 hours on our way. It was a dream, especially because we drove until 11 pm, gaining hours after sunset that we wouldn't normally spend standing and waiting on the highway. We had a great chat and he would even have driven us on, offered us a room at his place and looked after us. However, as we wanted to stay on the Trans-Canada-Highway, he bought us something at Tim Hortons instead, which really moved us. He has been working two jobs for years and we very much hope that he will get his well-earned pension in two years' time and then finally have time to travel!

Overnight stay in a tent at the harbour in Blind River, again not an excellent night's sleep, but with a great view of Lake Huron in the morning. Three rides further on we found ourselves in Wawa. Wawa? We knew it from somewhere. A few weeks earlier, we had met a pilot in a bar in Halifax who gave us a few tips and a number with the words "If you ever get stuck in f***g Wawa". And indeed, after a hike and a meal, our luck ran out and the sun set down: we were stuck in Wawa... So, with slight excitement, we sent a text message to this unknown number. A little later we got back: "Too bad that you got stuck. You can rent a cabin for 130€ per night". Great, thanks for nothing.

So we were on the highway mostly by ourselves, it was getting dark, the night was going to be cold, we had already camped restlessly the previous night and Leah had a slight cold. When I found a campsite within walking distance, the decision was quickly made: We would go to the campsite and get a cabin. 40€ instead of 130€.

Unfortunately, we failed this step on our hitchhiking challenge for the time being, as it meant pretty clearly: no expenses for accommodation. At that moment, however, we didn't care at all and enjoyed this mini-cabin with mobile heating and folding sofa like a 5-star hotel.

The next day, Sönke pushed on, sensing that we might be in Wawa and thus in Hitchhikers Hell for longer today. We got back on the TCH only shortly before 11am (Sönke just shook his head). The cars buzzed past us for two hours, no luck. Is it true? Will we have to end up here? How does it feel to be petrified? At the point when we no longer believed that cars even had brake lights, the time had come. A ride for 5 hours to Thunder Bay! Out of the worst part of Ontario! Arriving before sunset. Good conversation with a Mohawk woman who was on her way to an annual meeting of the First Nations tribes.

We arrived hungry in the evening, fortified ourselves in the supermarket and went back to the motorway. Who knows, there are supposedly people who drive all the way across Canada. On the side, I looked for a place to camp. Then, half an hour later, a Ford F-150 pick-up with Alberta licence plates pulled up. We could hardly believe our luck - off we went, straight to Edmonton! Our driver's name was Bedford and he drove from Halifax to Edmonton in one go - it was his second full day of driving. We made it a few more hours in the evening, then we pulled over and Bedford got us an own room in a motel. It was unbelievable... In the morning we had left too late, had already aimed for a wild campsite in Thunder Bay and in the end we would sleep in a warm, inviting room with a shower! Maybe it's because Bedford has Newfoundland roots?

We set off at 6am the next day, with 17 hours of driving ahead of us. When Sönke offered to drive, Bedford was already practically lying horizontally on the back seat to catch up on some sleep. "Have fun guys" and off we chugged leisurely into the sunrise.

Border of Manitoba, the trees became more sporadic, the hills flat, just before Winnipeg the wide prairie really took off. Breakfast at noon in Brandon, Bedford didn't miss the opportunity to serve us. Refuelling stop afterwards, another 1000 km to go.

Then Saskatchewan. The slogan of this province is "Land of the Living Skies". That's exactly what we experienced, because shortly afterwards the clouds closed in and it rained briefly, while on the other side there was still some sky blue to be seen. Just beautiful!

Pit stop at Subway, Bedford at the till. How can we repay him for all this kindness? "Keep me updated with your journey, that's all you can do". During the trip, he kept phoning his family members and we realised what a value family is to him and what he would do for them. We started to miss our own family too.

Then the border with Alberta, slowly it's time to arrive. Impatience grows, the sun sets and late in the evening we arrive safely and happily at our friend Brian's house. We want to meet Bedford again during our time in Edmonton and get to know his family, who must be very lucky to have him. What a great guy.

We have now completed the longest stretch of the Trans-Canada Highway and from here it is only a stone's throw to the Pacific. We have gained some time and want to see a bit more of western Canada.

In any case, our conclusion about Hitchhiker's Hell is that we would rather define it as Hitchhiker's Roulette. Sure, you can quickly get stranded in the middle of nowhere and there are really almost only lorry drivers and motorhomes passing by who won't give you a lift. But it's also the highway for all trans-Canada travellers who then travel very (!) long distances. And if you stay patient, you'll get your chance at some point. We are always told that our luck is that we are clearly a couple travelling, which certainly comes across as more inviting than a down-and-out hippy. Unfortunately, skin colour and prejudices certainly play a role. Nevertheless and luckily, there are still people who don't differentiate. So we would like to wish everyone who ventures into Hitchhiker's Roulette good luck and patience. The passing scenery from the Lakes Region of Ontario to the Prairies to the Rocky Mountains is definitely worth it.